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The Veggie

A Pesto for Every Pantry and Mood

Use the Ligurian sauce as a guideline and make tastier sandwiches, soups, pastas, gratins and more.

I don’t worry too much about my food obsessions, which fade in and out all year long. They have a way of naturally sorting themselves out: The habit will become too expensive to sustain (I’m thinking of the boxes of stretchy, wrinkly, extremely satisfying yuba noodles that I buy and want to eat constantly!). Or the season will end on something I can’t get enough of, like those big, frilly, extra-fragrant bunches of basil at the farmers market.

For now, I’m constantly referencing Samin Nosrat’s recipe for pesto, because it’s perfect. But as basil fades away, or my pantry and fridge become disorganized — both are seasonal, cyclical inevitabilities — I’ll have to follow it more and more loosely, substituting in other greens and nuts. (The key directive of her recipe is to break down the nuts first, then add the garlic and olive oil, and finally add the greens, whether raw or blanched.)

If you’ve got everything you need to make a classic Ligurian pesto right now, that’s great. But if you don’t, or just prefer to mess around, there are plenty of delicious variations.

Genevieve Ko has a recipe for broccoli-walnut pesto and pasta, and another that uses pumpkin seeds. Susan Spungen makes one with pistachios, and Kay Chun reaches for smoked almonds. Mashama Bailey makes pesto with pecans, because the nut is a better representation of the foods grown near her restaurant in Savannah, Ga.

If you can’t find great basil, or can’t find much of it, you can always make something a little different, and make up the difference with blanched spinach, nettles, arugula, radish or beet tops, and later in the year, garlic scapes and ramps.

David Tanis makes a beautiful pesto out of parsley, then uses it to dress tender ricotta dumplings. Alexa Weibel makes a version of pesto with sun-dried tomatoes, and Ali Slagle’s vegan pesto comes together with raw cashews, kale and a little basil (though you could replace the basil with whatever other soft greens you have on hand). Avocado can also lend the sauce an unexpected silkiness.

Whatever pesto deviation you make, you can use it to dress hot pasta, to build French bread pizza or to stuff some shells. You can stir it into a luxurious bowl of creamy beans in a hot broth or season a bowl of vegetable soup. Spread it on bread for a more complex sandwich, as in this mushroom melt, or layer it into a potato gratin.

ImageA glass jar of pesto with a swing top sits on a wooden table with a spoon sticking out of it. To the right is a white bowl filled with pesto pasta. Above the jar there is a wedge of cheese and in the upper left corner there is a metal pan with more pesto pasta.
Credit...Jessica Emily Marx for The New York Times
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Credit...Johnny Miller for The New York Times. Food Stylist: Rebecca Jurkevich.

Go to the recipe.


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Credit...Andrew Scrivani for The New York Times

Go to the recipe.


OK, so that was a lot of pesto. If you’re looking for something completely different, here are three new recipes I can’t wait to try: Naz Deravian’s dal adas; Ali Slagle’s pasta with butternut squash, kale and brown butter; and Samantha Seneviratne’s banana pancakes.

Thanks for reading The Veggie and see you next week!


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